If you’ve ever been to Paris, you know that most bistros and brasseries offer a prix fixe menu (which is typically much cheaper than going à la carte). In some cases, there is just the plat du jour (a special of the day) and then you can select a starter or dessert (or take all three) – or in others you get to choose from a series of standard entrées and again mix and match with a starter and/or dessert depending on how peckish you are and how much you want to spend. This place is different.
The NY Times just wrote a whole piece on several Parisian spots where you could score a three-course meal for around 20 Euros. I was intrigued. So, off I was to try one in particular, just north of where I was staying.
I’ll start by describing the neighborhood. I walked to the restaurant given its proximity to Le Marais, the area I stay in most often. As I crept up Boulevard de Sébastopol the vibe definitely changed. Things in this part are a little less polished. Think cheap lingerie shops. Fast food outlets. More traffic. But who needs the veneer of the occasionally too-hip-for-its-own-good 3rd when you’re on a mission for good food? Once you get to Boulevard St. Denis, make a left and then make a right under the impressive stone arch. Just up on the right, you’ll see the famous art nouveau signage. You’re here. Bouillon Julien.
The space is impressive. A vast dining room, that despite its size, can get filled up quite quickly if you’re there at peak hours. So, be prepared to wait if that’s the case. This time, I was there on a Tuesday for lunch. No issues.
Beyond its physical size, Bouillon Julien has another kind of grandeur. This place is absolutely oozing with art nouveau details. The sconces. The coat hooks. The bar. The ceiling. In all honesty, this type of over-the-top decoration is not my cup of tea. Too gaudy pour moi. But I’m here to eat.
I was unfortunately fighting a cold so what better thing to order than their signature dish – the Bouillon Julien. This beefy broth had definite bursts of ginger and a little lemongrass. A sort of surprising combination, but tasty nonetheless. It had strips of tender beef, some parsley and carrots, and little pearl-like bits of pasta that sunk to the bottom of the bowl.
I also opted to get a side of creamy leeks. God I love leeks. These were delicious. Tender. Finely chopped. And impressively not too rich. To compliment my meal I also went for a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and to round things out, a café crème (espresso with milk). Yeah, I know…I should have ditched the wine, but I’m in Paris, damnit. And if I hadn’t been fighting a stuffy nose, to be honest, I probably never would have gone for the soup, but I’m glad I tried it.
So many other dishes on the menu sounded good. The gentleman to the right of me ordered a salmon filet that looked great. And the guy to my left immediately ordered a sausage dish, without barely looking at the menu. Must have been his regular. I see why folks would come back here. No main course was priced over 14 euros. They also had a steak entrée with roasted potatoes, a half chicken with frites, sautéed shrimp with basmati rice, among others — plus many sides that also sounded delicious.
Their menu changes seasonally, so I didn’t bother taking a photo for you guys. The good news is they seem to keep their offerings up to date on their website. So if you want, you can spy the menu before you go. In the end I did spend under 20 euros, so it lived up to its hype for being cheap. Would I go back? Probably. It was a little out of the way…but, I was pleased to find that it’s around the corner from an adorable Parisian passage that has all kinds of Indian shops, one in particular that happens to carry one of my favorite, hard-to-find things (more on that soon).
And it’s also just down the road from a ridiculously charming hotel that I’ve been meaning to visit for an alfresco beverage or two — Hotel Providence. Their patio is just begging me to linger over a rosé and a good book.Â
Alas, I was too stuffed to stop in this time, but come on – with a façade like that – you bet I’ll be coming back for an aperitif next time!
So…want some cheap eats in a very Fraaaaaaanch environment? If it’s not too far out of your way, I’d say give Bouillon Julien a whirl. Afterwards, you’ll at least have a couple other spots in the vicinity to check out, to make it all worth your while.