What some of you reading this may not realize is, to my chagrin, I do not keep my lights on by flitting around the world and sharing my travel tips here. In “real life” I’m a freelance Creative Director and writer in the glamourless world of advertising. Given the inconsistent nature of lining up projects, typically whenever I have downtime I try to jet off somewhere.
Earlier in January, I found myself in a typical situation…there was potential for a project to start but I had about four days to kill in between. With very little notice, I was expecting to be met with sky high flight prices and to be locked down in New York. Last minute trips are great, but only if they don’t cost you an arm and a leg — and more often than not, those are few and far between. But in this instance, I totally lucked out. I assume it was because it was majorly in the off season, but still I couldn’t believe what I found: a round trip ticket to Bilbao, Spain (via CDG) on Air France from NYC for $540…four days out from departing. I did a quick poll amongst friends to see if it was a city worth visiting and after many resounding YES’s, my flight was booked.
So, a couple caveats for this itinerary. If you find yourself in this part of Spain in, say, January or February — I would say two days there is plenty. It rains quite a bit in the north of Spain and when you’re dealing with crisper weather and rain, you’ll likely want to just make the most of the city. If you’re traveling in slighter warmer months, or even in the bright days of summer, you could absolutely spend 3-4 days there and take a day trip to San Sebastián and other neighboring coastal towns, or even head over to Rioja wine country. And hell, if you just want to visit for food alone, you could spend days, with Basque country having the most staggering concentration of Michelin-starred restaurants than anywhere else in the world. At any rate, regardless of when you’re traveling, Bilbao is a stylish, small city with lots of great things to see, taste, and experience. Looking for some quick tips? I’ve got you covered. …or continue reading for the full itinerary. Vamos!
Where to stay in Bilbao
Sometimes I opt for Airbnb apartment rentals when traveling, but since I was only going to be in Bilbao for a short time, I popped over to Tablet Hotels to see if they had any reccos. After cross referencing their suggestions and the reviews over at Trip Advisor, I opted to stay at the Miró Hotel.
It’s spitting distance from the Guggenheim and walkable to everything. Worth noting: there are some very affordable rooms here, but pay attention as “interior” rooms do not have windows (hence the cheap rate). If that doesn’t bother you and you want to save some money, the rooms are actually quite modern and spacious. I opted for a city view room and was floored that it only cost $109/nt. Alternatively, the Gran Hotel Domine is practically next door to the Miró Hotel and equally as nice, or if you want to be deeper in the city, the Hotel Carlton is right at Plaza Moyúa and apparently has a fireplace in their lobby (but I haven’t seen it for myself).
Day 1
Getting to the city from the airport
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, if a city I’m traveling to has a convenient, cheaper, and relatively easy method of public transportation to get travelers to and from the airport, I will usually opt for that. Bilbao happens to fit the bill and despite me being a supporter of cabbing it if you’re super jet lagged, in this case it would almost seem silly since it’s so easy.
Bus from Bilbao airport to city center
The Bilbao airport is small. One terminal. When you arrive, simply head down to baggage claim / ground transportation. Follow the signs to the buses and head to the little ticket booth at the far end of the airport arrivals area. You’ll want to buy a ticket for the A3247 bus. Have a look on Google maps, the bus makes 3 stops in the city (Gran Vía 79, Plaza Moyua and Alameda Recalde 11) that, in theory, should get you relatively close to most hotels. It only costs €3 each way, so it’s a steal compared to what a taxi would cost.
Taxi from Bilbao airport to city center
If you’re with a group of people and plan to split the taxi fare or if you’re just too tired to deal with the bus, a short taxi ride is also an option. The airport is only about 20 minutes from the city center, so a cab will run you about €20. Easy enough.
Worth noting for getting around town, Bilbao has not gotten on board with Uber or any other ride sharing service, so you’ll need to rely on your legs, public transport (buses, metro, and trams), and taxis while here.
Check the weather
As I mentioned, Bilbao is known to be rainy. If you’re only visiting for a short time, check the forecast first and opt to do the Funicular and outdoor stuff ideally on a day with less or no rain.
Ride the funicular and explore the city from above and below
Weather permitting, a great way to start off your visit to Bilbao is to get a birds eye view and lay of the land. Since 1915, Bilbao’s Artxanda Funicular has been shuttling locals and tourists alike up and down Mouth Artxanda. It leaves every 15 minutes and takes just 3 minutes each way to climb up or down. Oh, and it’s about a 15 minute walk from the Miró Hotel. At the top, you will be rewarded with sweeping views of Bilbao in what almost seems like a tilt-shift perspective of life below. It’s great to visit in the morning when the sun is rising and things are coming to life.
Admire the architecture and do some shopping along the Gran Via
The one thing Bilbao has no shortage of is stunning and surprising architecture. One gorgeous piece of sexy engineering that you’ll experience on your walk over to the Funicular is the sweeping Zubizuri footbridge. Designed by the same architect and engineer as the ultra modern and delicious Bilbao airport, this glass and steel stunner is worth a visit.
After walking back over the bridge, head up Ercilla Kalea and walk towards Federico Moyúa Plaza in the center of town with its grand fountain. From here, you can do some shopping along the Gran Via (aka Don Diego López Haroko Kale Nagusia) which juts east and west of the plaza and is lined with all kinds of shops, including the beloved El Corte Inglés department store. Not always the most affordable of stores, but worth a visit to see if anything is on sale. As you walk about town, you’ll most certainly be struck by all the gorgeous buildings and public areas. One minute you’re looking at something ultra contemporary, the next something Art Nouveau or Neo-Gothic.
Time for nibbles…
At this point, you’ll likely be ready for some lunch. One of my favorite places that I visited was La Viña del Ensanche, a picture perfect and traditional Bilbao restaurant that has been serving locals since 1927. Not much has changed and the quality is phenomenal. You can stand at the bar and graze on pintxos or nab a small table and tuck into some Spanish treats.
Speaking of…some of Bilbao’s specialties, besides their impressive jamón and pintxos, include bacalao (salt cod) — it’s often prepared on menus as bacalao pil-pil (which is a super garlicky emulsified sauce), merluza (hake fish) – which is also very common and often prepared with salsa verde – a mild, parsley sauce, alubias de tolosa is another local favorite (a hearty bean and blood sausage stew), and let’s not forget the wine — for reds you’ve gotta go with a local Rioja and for whites, you must try a crisp glass of Txakoli.
Take your first dip into Old Town for souvenirs and snacks
After lunch it’s time to explore a bit of the old town, Casco Viejo. Head down the Gran Via towards El Corte Inglés and walk over the Arenal Bridge (Areatzako Zubia). There are the famed “seven streets” in this part of town that used to be part of the medieval walled city, and they’re all woven together with charming, narrow alleyways and secret nooks. You’ll have time to do some more exploring of this part of town tomorrow, but for now, pop into the shops and take some photos.
Need a souvenir? One particular thing I was excited to stumble upon were Confitería Santiaguito candies. After a bit of research, I discovered that they have been produced since 1698 and are made from totally natural marshmallow. Immediately you think of smooshy, white confections, but in this case, it’s quite the opposite. They are hard, individually-wrapped, light-brown colored candies reminiscent of toasted caramel and they’re so freaking tasty! The original manufacturer now only sells to wholesalers, but you can still find them at a couple spots in Old Town. I found mine at La Bendita and picked up a couple small bags for friends and for myself.
After a bit of shopping, you must be thirsty. Conveniently, in Old Town, you’ve got some serious options. What better way to rest tired feet than to relax in a gorgeous Plaza? Nestled in the heart of Casco Viejo is Plaza Nueva. which is flanked on all sides by delicious pintxo bars (and in good weather, tons of outdoor seating). Two of my top spots to visit here are Gure Toki and Casa Victor Montes. The former spot has a devoted following and has won some serious pintxo awards, so on the day I visited, I planned to graze a bit here and then chose to move down to Casa Victor Montes for more. Both have some amazing snacks and wine. Gure Toki seemed a bit more elaborate. I enjoyed a delicious chicken skewer with puréed potato and couldn’t resist more jamón. Casa Victor Montes had a huge spread of somewhat more traditional snacks, and I went to town…all kinds of stuffed croquetas, thinly sliced jamón, olives, cheese…and of course, fantastic Rioja for only €2 a glass!
Azkuna Zentroa and more Basque bites
After feasting and exploring a bit in Old Town, it’s time to head back to the city center. About a 20 minute walk from Plaza Nueva is the Azkuna Zentroa cultural complex. This vast, former trade warehouse was reimagined in part by Philippe Starck. To be honest, it didn’t knock my socks off, but it was still cool to pop in for a quick visit. There are 43 columns throughout the space that were designed by Starck and interesting to see. The space houses a local cinema, an auditorium, a couple shops, some restaurants, and a fitness center for locals. The gym has one particular feature that I enjoyed seeing — a glass bottomed pool that you can peer into from below. So…you can say you saw it, too.
Azkuna Zentroa
Inside Azkuna Zentroa
Azkuna Zentroa Glass-Bottomed Pool
At this point, you’re probably a bit pooped. Rest up, because tonight you will get to try some more Basque favorites. Since it’s your first night in Bilbao I suggest having dinner in the city center. You have a couple options. If you’re looking for a more contemporary restaurant, you could stop into Restaurante Abando. This spot feels more like a modern day gastropub, but with local specialties. I happened to pop in here and was happy to try the local Merluza with Salsa Verde, as well as some delicious Pimientos de Padrón.
Alternatively, you could also stop into Café Iruña tonight. This charming spot has been in business since 1903 – so you know they’re doing something right. It drips with old school charm, and depending on the night, they sometimes even have live flamenco performances. They serve all kinds of basque favorites and have one speciality folks rave about — their pintxos morunos, which are spiced pork or lamb skewers, typically served with some bread. Tuck in. Bliss out. And save some room for tomorrow.
Day 2
A quick breakfast to start
I’m not that fussy for breakies. That said, a simple café where I can grab a pastry and a strong coffee are usually all I need. Bilbao has a bunch, but I found the Cafetería Wiché Café bakery to perfectly suit my needs. Modern, clean, and delicious. It was about a 10 minute walk from my hotel and a 10 minute walk to the Guggenheim Musuem…our next stop.
Guggenheim time
Unless art museums flat out bore you, a trip to Bilbao would be incomplete without a visit to the breathtaking Guggenheim Museum. Inaugurated in 1997, this awe inspiring structure designed by Frank Gehry without a doubt helped put Bilbao on the map. In fact, today the term “Bilbao-effect” refers to any less fortunate area’s drastic transformation and economic uptick, thanks due in part to the influence of a cultural or architectural investment.
If the pictures of the building alone give you a little frisson, just wait until you see it in the flesh. It’s extraordinary. Admittedly, I’m a huge fan of contemporary art, so this spot was very much in my wheelhouse, but it’s pretty enough to jazz just about anyone. And the sculptures surrounding the building from artists like Jeff Koons, Louise Bourgeois, and Daniel Buren, among others, also add to the visual thrill. Behold…
Guggenheim Bilbao
Inside Guggenheim Bilbao
L'Arc Rouge, Daniel Buren
Maman, Louise Bourgeois
View from afar
Guggenheim Bilbao
Tulips, Jeff Koons
Guggenheim Bilbao
Guggenheim Bilbao
Puppy, Jeff Koons
If you’re visiting Bilbao in the peak of tourist season, it’s best to buy your museum ticket in advance (you’ll beat the queues). If not, you’ll have no trouble. Admission is €16 and includes one of those handheld audio guides. I found it to be terribly annoying, as much of the commentary blathered on and on and on, and I ended up just carrying it around for the bulk of my visit. But, maybe you’ll enjoy it – up to you. One standout for me at the museum was the unmissable and vast work called The Matter of Time by Richard Serra. This physically impressive and moving exhibit had me literally dizzy with delight. As you walk through the sculptural steel forms, you have no choice but to feel disoriented at times. The varying walkway widths and leaning steel walls start to really play with your head. It was a trip.
Next stop: The largest covered market in Europe
After all that visual stimulation, you’ll likely look forward to letting your mind wander for a bit. It’s time for a stroll. Exit the museum and wrap around to the back of the building towards the river. Soak in the views, pass the Zubizuri bridge you visited yesterday, and continue along the pedestrian river walk until you come to the Udaletxeko bridge. Cross over and you’ll see the Bilbao Town Hall building in front of you. Hang a right and vere back into Old Town. Wander about for a bit, snap some pics, and work up an appetite.
As you wander through Old Town, make your way to Dendarikale street. This one will lead you right to where you need to be next: Mercado de la Ribera, the largest covered market in Europe and where you’re about to become very, very full. The market covers two floors and 10,000 sq meters of space housing food merchants and purveyors.
Upstairs, at the far end of the market, is the food hall. Flanking a large open area with communal seating are food stalls selling everything from paella to pintxos, as well as beer and wine. It will be crowded. But fear not, the turnover of the shared seating is pretty good. Just do a lap or two to get a sense of what you’re craving, find a spot to sit, and then go to town.
Mercado Ribera Mmmmeat
Mmmore mmmeat
Pollo!
Croquetas and Txakoli anyone?
Mercado Ribera Food Hall
Time for reflection and digestion…
So, you’re stuffed and not sure where to turn. Next stop is not far. I’m not a religious person in the slightest, but I’m a sucker for old cathedrals. The Catedral de Santiago in Bilbao is pretty nice. Not ginormous, but impressive just the same and it has a lovely little inner courtyard you can visit, as well. There’s a small fee for admission, but save the receipt – as it will also get you into their sister church, San Anton eliza, which is situated just behind Ribera Market.
Last chance to get your fill.
It’s been quite the cultural day. Head back to your hotel and rest up for your last fill of Bilbao. If you’d prefer to stay in the city center, I can’t recommend Bilbao Berria enough. I had some straight up magical pintxos here, including what I initially thought was just going to be a yummy piece of chorizo on a stick, but transformed into a corn-dog-esque masterpiece with a balsamic drizzle. Hooray for language barriers! I left very happy. The €2 glasses of Rioja didn’t hurt either. Feast your eyes.
Before...
After.
Bravas!
If those photos don’t already have you salivating and rushing over to Berria Bilbao, and if you’re up for a walk back into Old Town, then I suggest you hit up either Restaurante Mandoya or El Txoko Berria. I visited the latter when I was there and had a ridiculously tasty dinner. Granted, it was practically lunch according to the locals, as I was dining around 8pm along with a handful of other gringos…but hey, I had an early morning flight to catch. Nothing like having some more croquetas de jamón (my favorite) and some Biscay-style braised pig cheeks.
Croquetas de Jamón
Biscay-style Braised Pig Cheeks
A few more tips and tidbits…
Do you need to know some Basque phrases before you go or is Spanish/English okay?
I like to think of myself as a worldy lady and I admittedly get super jazzed over learning languages. That said, anytime I visit a new country I do my best to learn a few handy phrases like please, thank you, hello/goodbye, could I have the check please, etc. In this instance, I won’t lie…it was confusing. The thing is, in Bilbao they speak Basque – not to be confused with Catalan (which is similar but spoken in Catalonia, in northeastern Spain). Did I hear Basque spoken? Absolutely. You say Bai for “yes”, Ez for “no”, and Kaixo (KAI-show) for “Hello.” You say Kontua, mesedez! (konTUah meSEHdes) for “Check, please!” Did I use any of these? Once. Besides that, I found that speaking in basic Spanish was just fine. And let me tell you, my Spanish is VERY BASIC…as in I never learned it in school. I learned it on Sesame Street. I learned it on the streets of New York. And I learned it by faffing my way through Spain. So, don’t worry about it. Just be polite.
Should I buy one of those Bizkaia tourist cards?
No. As you can probably tell, Bilbao is pretty small and very walkable. You don’t need a card for unlimited public transport rides. Get in your steps Boo Boo. There is much ham to be had. If you get tired, hop on one-way…but it’s not necessary and the card won’t get you many other discounts.
How do I order pintxos in a busy bar?
This can be admittedly a bit tricky to navigate. Best rule of thumb is, don’t just start taking things. I know that sounds like a total no brainer, unless you’re an animal, but there are legit places that encourage folks to sample away and have an honor system based on telling them how many snacks you’ve consumed. If it’s not patently obvious that that’s the policy, simply wait to make eye contact with a bartender and start pointing away at what you’d like. Alternatively, if he hands you a plate, that’s your license to serve yourself.
So, as you can see in this post, as well as many of my others, it is virtually impossible to leave Spain hungry or bored. Pace yourself, kittens and above all, enjoy!
Awesome! Brava!!