Three days in Rome

After you’ve had your fill at the market – and trust me you will – it’s time to burn some calories. The next stop is up a decently sized hill with an awesome little secret…but before you go there, if you happen to need to pick up any other Roman food items for a picnic (or to even cart home to the States), there’s a charming, local gourmet market that’s worth popping into before you leave the Testaccio neighborhood. It’s called Salumeria Volpetti. Grab some snacks for later or just poke your head in and feast your eyes.

The Knights of Malta
Okay, on to the not-so-secret, but certainly off the beaten path attraction. Even my Italian friends had never seen this, but I most certainly piqued their curiosity! Head to the Piazza Dei Cavalieri Di Malta. You’ll see a small plaza, a large fortress style wall, and a big, green door. The door is what you’re looking for. I highly doubt you will be the only ones up there. And if you see a small crowd lined up, just wait. This is worth it. Trust me. So…the Knights of Malta are an exclusive bunch. You’re not getting through that villa door. But what you are going to do is peer through the door’s keyhole for a freaking magical and perfectly centered view of St. Peter’s Basilica. If you’re crafty, bring your fancy camera and try to capture it like I did, but don’t fiddle around forever because people are likely waiting behind you. 

Rome with a view: The Orange Tree and Rose Gardens
Now that you’ve made it up the hill it’s time to soak in the views of Rome below. Get your camera ready and head down Via di Santa Sabina to the stunning orange tree garden, Giardino degli Aranci, overlooking the Tiber River and the rest of Rome. Then, after you’ve admired those crazy views and medieval walls, keep heading down the road and check out the Rome Rose Garden, Roseto di Roma Capitale, for even more ancient ruins as backdrops. It’s beauty overload!

The Colosseum
Okay, enough gardens! So, the next stop I’d suggest is the Colosseum. I don’t need to blather on about it – but if you haven’t been, it’s worth a quick look. It’s old and freaking impressive. That said, if you plan to go, buy your ticket in advance. You will skip the MASSIVE queues for day-of tickets and will just need to queue in the line to get through security. Worth noting, as well, make sure you ask what line you’re standing in. It can get confusing. There are many lines that form and the last thing you want to be is stuck in the ticket line when you have yours already. Also worth noting, typically when you buy your ticket in advance, it’s also valid for access to the Roman Forum and Palatine Hill. So, get your fill if you’re so inclined. If you’ve already done the Colosseum thing, have zero interest, or if you didn’t already have lunch, you can always do some more exploring, saunter into the city center, or head back towards the river for an aperitivo. If you choose to keep exploring, about a 12 minute walk from the Colosseum area is Trattoria Morgana (yes, Bourdain ate here) and not much further from there is the famed Gelateria Fassi (supposedly the oldest Gelateria in Rome). You can’t get more authentic than that!

A traditional Roman meal in the Jewish Quarter for dinner
At this point, I don’t know about you, but I’d need a nap. I suggest you head back to Trastevere, relax for a bit and freshen up for dinner later. You’ll want to see some more of Rome, but your legs may be tired, so how about a short jaunt into the Jewish quarter for some traditional Roman foods. 

Two musts: Carciofi alla giudìa (Jewish-style fried artichokes) and supplì (essentially arancini – fried rice balls filled with cheese and sometimes other things).You can get both at Giggetto. You could also hit up Piperno which also has Jewish Roman favorites and is tucked away from the main drag, freaking oozing with Roman charm. Note: it may be worth your while to try to make some rezzies in advance at these spots, or prepare to wait a bit.

Day 3

Soaking up the city: Trevi fountain, Spanish steps, the best cappuccino of your life, leather souvenirs, and more.

Today I suggest hitting the city HARD. The great thing about Rome is it’s so walkable. You really can’t get “lost” in the city…just meander through the narrow streets and soak it all in. As mentioned, I’m a pretty non-touristy traveler, but I have to admit on my first trip to Rome I just had to see the Trevi Fountain in the flesh. A little Dolce Vita moment (sadly amongst hundreds of others). But, it was worth it. So regal. But before you even get there, on your way, you’ll pass through Campo de’Fiori, once a venue for gory executions and now an overpriced open-air market in the mornings. And while you’re all it…on your way, you’ll also pass one of Rome’s most famous coffee shops, Sant’ Eustachio Il Caffè. It, too, will have an insane line – but IT IS WORTH IT. I’m not even that crazy of a coffee person, and this was hands down the best cappuccino I’ve ever had. They say their water is from an ancient aqueduct…so that must be it. It’s sort of a weird ordering system, too. You walk in, place your order at the register, pay for it, and then they circulate you along the horse-shoe shaped bar with your receipt. You will feel anxious. You will wonder, “Am I ever getting my coffee?” And trust me, you will. Somehow they make it all work. Oh, and this is a standing-only café. There are a couple seats outside, but don’t bother. Get a coffee. Enjoy it standing up. And then head on your way.

After visiting the fountain, you’re just another short walk over to  the famed Spanish Steps. They will be mobbed, as well, but if you want to take a quick photo and move on, you’re not too far. The good news is, if you’re in the market for any cheap leather goods – you’re not far from a street that seems to carry a ton. I’m not talking fancy…I’m talking like €15 Italian leather belts, wallets and whatnot. Just head southeast from the steps and hit up Via Francesco Crispi. There are shops dotted up and down this little strip. Some are clearly much better than others, so be choosey.

At this point, you’re probably hungry. Lunch…you have options. If you’re reading this in advance and want to do some planning, do yourself a favor and nab yourself a reservation at Osteria Barberini. I sadly, did not do this and was turned away the day I had hoped to go – but their food is supposed to be insane and they are all about TRUFFLES. So, go here to get your fill and make us all jealous. If you could care less about truffles or want to make your way back to the more central part of the city, you could head back down towards the Pantheon. While you’re walking by, if you’re so inclined, feel free to note a few other affordable leather goods stores to come back to: Il Gancio and Mancini Leather.

Keep heading south and a little west and you’ll eventually reach Ditirambo, an adorable little Roman trattoria with affordable prices, incredible pastas and entrées and great wine. I would have dined here twice if I had more time. This was my lunch one day…pasta with zucchini flowers, goat cheese, and guanciale. Yum.

After lunch, I suggest shopping, wandering…soaking in the river views. You could stay and grab dinner in the city center, or you could grab an aperitivo at one of Rome’s fabulous wine bars, like Cul de Sac or Enoteca Il Goccetto and then head back to Trastevere for a rest. 

As mentioned earlier, Trastevere is great in that it has plenty of restaurants outside of the hustle and bustle that can hold their own. The little tip of the neighborhood that juts into the river has tons of cute little trattorias and it’s an Instagrammers dream. Check out Trattoria Da Teo (truffles here, too), Le Mani in Pasta (known for their gnochetti with fava beans and truffles), or Roma Sparita for more traditional roman pasta and pizzas.

Hopefully this loose itinerary helps you along your way whether it’s your first, or even your fifth, time in Rome. There’s always more to see. More to try. More to eat and drink. But whatever you do, stay curious!