You have no idea how badly I wish I could tell you that one of my all-time favorite restaurants in Paris is a hidden, cozy gem tucked away down a quiet alleyway. But it’s not. It’s not a secret. It’s not tucked away. It’s known. As in Bourdain-even-ate-here known.
Now before you go off closing this window and banishing my blog outright for being too mundane, you’ve gotta hear me out. This place has a lot of things going for it: a perpetually-aflame, open, wood-fired grill, ridiculous cuts of meat, delicious daily specials, a decent and affordable wine list, a cantankerous (but charming if you get to know him) manager/owner and his lovely wife, rustic interiors, and a convenient location. The latter and perhaps the Bourdain bit make this spot quite a busy one, but not impossible to get into.
Robert et Louise sits smack dab in the middle of the bustling Marais neighborhood in Paris. Open since 1958, this bistro has been serving up some of the most delicious French comfort food on Rue Vielle du Temple in the heart of the 3rd.
I’d be lying if I said I haven’t come here twice in the same day before. I’d be lying if I said I don’t have to stop in every time I visit Paris. And I’d be lying if I weren’t occasionally recognized by staff and offered little snorts of Armagnac after my meals. I love this place.
They very recently upgraded their website from something that used to look like it was made in 1998 for Netscape, to something that now actually accepts reservations online and has the full menu. Fancy! You’re in luck. (I was about to tell you, if you can parler, then do as I do and pick up the phone as soon as you arrive in Paris and book something, or if you need to speak English, just show up in person and talk to François the big guy at the front hovering over the large reservation diary. He’s one of the owners who’s gruff but accommodating. Make a polite effort to speak with him though, and he will take care of you.) But now you can avoid all of that and just book online in advance. I still suggest getting to know François and his wife Pascale (the daughter of the actual Robert et Louise).
What to order? God. Where to even begin? If you’re carnivorous, please get the ribeye. Just look at it. It’s mouth-drippingly fantastic and comes with roasted potatoes and a little side salad. If you’re peckish for a starter or just wanting to go FULL-ON Paris, then maybe get an appetizer like the grilled prawns, pork rillette, or traditional garlicky escargot, or have a grand finale and finish your meal with a sublime piece of Brie de Meaux. (This is not your basic Brie, Boo Boo…this is transformative cheese. You will lose your mind. I promise.)
Escargot
Fromage (avec Brie de Meaux on the far right)
Pork Rillette
I’ve come here for lunch and opted for a prix fixe deal (savory roasted pork stew one day). I’ve popped in for an afternoon snack of rillette and a rosé at the bar. And I’ve brought many here for steak dinners. You can’t go wrong any time of day. Find yourself a spot. (Note: they have a whole cave-like basement level with more seating and a second bar.) Order a bottle from their extensive and affordable list. And embrace the coziness of it all. You’re gonna thank me later.